I lived in Cincinnati for twenty eight years before I ventured off of the “Big Muddy” and headed westward. There were things I really missed that were distinctly Cincinnati that you could only get in the tri-state area and were just not available here in San Francisco until recently like frozen boxes of Skyline Chili. You had to live there to really enjoy the products that are offered in The Queen City or as they call it now The Blue Chip City. I never understood why they dropped the old moniker. I really like how The Queen City rolled off my tongue.
What I’m going to attempt to convey to the non-‘Natians and newbs to the cuisine that has helped us get over hangovers as well as contributing to our mid-section growth, is that this stuff is really good. It’s unique and tasty, greasy and spicy sometimes but always satisfying, making you yearn for them if you are not within a stones throw of an outlet that served these delectable morsels of deliciousness.
Chili. It’s just a word to some. To others is a religious experience. Everyone says they have the perfect recipe for chili. Some like it chunky and spicy. A lot of folks love it the way we serve it in Cincinnati. Over spaghetti with beans, onions and of course, Tabasco. The origin of Cincinnati chili is very interesting. Basically Germans sold tons of hot dogs, sausages and bratwursts during the turn of the century. Signs littered the German neighborhood of Over-the-Rhine section of Cincinnati which was named after the Ohio river which reminded them of their home. There were also Macedonian immigrants that sold hot dogs such as the Germans but added chili to their dogs creating the chili cheese dog or as we refer to it as a Coney Island.
Chili jargon also includes the 3 way which is chili, pasta and cheese. The 4 way is with onions and the 5 way is served with everything including beans. My mouth is actually watering just talking about it. Add oyster crackers and you are embarking on a journey through age-old spices and a belly full of goodness. The main ingredients in Cincinnati chili is chili powder, cumin, cayenne pepper, cinnamon and a strange ingredient that most people don’t know that goes into the chili which is cocoa powder. Yep, we put chocolate in our chili! It has been served in Cincinnati since 1922.
People always have opinions about potato chips. I’ve actually gotten into arguments with people over what the best potato chip is. I think it has a lot to do with demographics. Some people like Lays, Mike Sells, other “corporate” chips that flood the supermarkets but in Cincinnati, we have two potato chips and then there are those Pringle type chips but most people don’t consider them real potato chips. Husman’s is considered the king of Cincinnati potato chips with Grippo’s closely following in its shadow. I could get punched in the face saying this to some die-hard Grippo fans, but I’m here and they are there and I’m going to say that Husman’s is a far superior to Grippo’s and I think it has to do with greasiness. Human’s are just more greasy which I equate to tasty when it comes to chips. Grippo’s always tore the roof of my mouth to shreds so I didn’t like them. I do love their BBQ style though. Very delicious. If you are every in Cincinnati, I suggest you try the potato chip challenge and decide for yourself.
Cincinnati beer used to be big business. By 1860, there were over 36 breweries in Cincinnati. This growth trend was basically squashed with the introduction of prohibition and only two breweries existed when I was a kid. Hudepohl and Burger. Both were the epicenters for some of the lousiest beer I ever consumed but gems like Little Kings and Christian Moerlein stood out as local favorites for their punch and flavor. Places like Boston Beer Company have now basically set shop up in Cincinnati gobbling up the competition.

There is only one word that comes to mind when I’m about to order eggs for Breakfast. Goetta. A delicious German pork dish that you fry like breakfast sausages. Made with pin oats and spices, it can be found in all major super markets and diners throughout the Cincinnati area. Originally a peasant dish meant to stretch meat product, today over one million pounds of Goetta is produced annually. The Pennsylvanian Dutch cousin to Goetta is called Scrapple. The ingredients are basically the same except Scrapple is made with corn meal rather than oats which Goetta is made. I love them both and find them both very enjoyable.
There is only one ice cream that will ever win people’s favorite in Cincinnati and it’s Graeters Ice Cream. Founded in 1870, you will never find a more creamy and delicious ice cream. I highly recommend the black-raspberry chocolate chip. Stunningly good.
Knives You Should Always Have In Your Drawers
July 3, 2010
I’ve always been a fan of decent cutlery. I’ve also worked in kitchens where the access to decent knives have been too far and between and left you with substandard product and some really nasty cuts. What I’m submitting today are decent knives with decent prices that anyone can acquire either online or at restaurant supply stores or other places like Sur La Table. I would suggest online or your local restaurant supply than specialty stores which charge a significant upcharge. I will also include some entry level knives that you can buy but buyer beware. The prices equals longevity, balance and sharpness.
I have about two thousand dollars worth of knives and other items in my bag at any given time. There are certain knives I use for certain tasks and there are knives I use that just feel good in my hand. Each person is different. Balance and handle weight is very important to people who either like light handles or something with a little base weight that can give them more comfort. Each brand offers different options.
I really like Global knives. I love their sleek design. Their edge is very sharp and I like the heavy handle that some can be put off by but they are very balanced, especially the larger knives and are affordable. A decent chef knife is about seventy dollars but will last you for years and you know what? They look hot!
My everyday knife I use for chopping, slicing, julienning or whatever I need to do, I use a ten inch MAC Knife. Endorsed by Thomas Keller of The French Laundry, they have a lifetime guarantee if you use their own shapeners which I didn’t do. I know how to keep an edge but the wood handle, the balance is just something that grew on me the minute I was given this glorious piece of cutlery. I think this is the best knife on the market for the price. A twelve inch chef knife is about a hundred dollars.
Nothing butchers like a good scimitar knife. Shaped like an Arabian saber, it is intimidating yet so damn useful! The ducktail end of the knife makes it perfect for slicing large pieces of your favorite animal and is designed for butchering anything from pork chops to whole strip loins. I’ve had the same fifteen dollar scimitar that I bought in North Beach twenty years ago and it is sharp as….heck?
Anyone can buy a sharpening steel. You can go to your local grocery store and buy some hunk of steel to sharpen your knife but will it get rid of the burrs and other nasty things that make your knife dull? You could go out and get a whetstone but who’s going to teach you how to use it? What I suggest is a “diamond steel.” It is a basic sharpening steel that is coated with diamond dust or crystals. It adds a more coarse application to the sharpening steel that will help rid your favorite knife of it’s blemishes. Imagine using this like you would use a facial cleanser with apricot pits to exfoliate your skin. Same applies with diamond steels and they are very easily acquired at your local knife shop, specialty stores or restaurant supply store.
I don’t think any household or knife bag should ever be without a pairing knife. They are the most utilized knives in my bag. Whether it is used for peeling peaches, fine mincing shallots or turning potatoes, they are worth their weight in gold. You can find them anywhere and even the most inexpensive five dollar pairing knife will make your life much easier when you are met with tasks that are small in stature.
People think that when you are filleting fish any knife will do. Wrong! You can make skinning, filleting and portioning a great piece of fish either a dream come true or a sloppy nightmare awaiting and it all comes down to the knife. I have in my bag a great Wustoff fish filleting knife. Slim and sleek, about twelve inches long and is sharp as hell. It will remove a skin without effort and will perform surgeon like slices on any fish of choice. I highly recommend this for any budding cook or chef.
Boning knives are a fickled bunch. You have the forged or non-forged types which basically means flexible blade vs. inflexible blade. I prefer the non-forged boning knives because I work with many different types of proteins and I find these flexible knives work best with poultry which I use a lot. Wustoff again has a great selection of forged and non-forged boning knives for about fifty bucks.
There are discount knives which you can find in your local Safeway or Krogers that go by the name OXO brand. If you are in the dire need for a knife and don’t care about balance, price or edge longevity, these type knives will suit you just fine in the short term. They will not hold an edge for very long and can be unbalanced but they will suffice for short term cooks.
One of my first entry level knives was from a company called Dexter-Russel. They are very prolific in the restaurant industry, I have them still in my kitchen for my cooks and they are cheap, reliable and can hold an edge. You can get a ten inch chef knife for under twenty dollars. Specialty shops and restaurant supply store will ALWAYS carry the Dexter-Russel brand and they have a lot of different knives.
Well, I hope I gave you a little insight on what cooks and chefs use to get their work accomplished. By no means is this complete list of knives available. Hell, I haven’t even gone into high end Japanese knives but that’s another chapter entirely. This small list should help the budding cook decide on what options they have.
The Trials and Tribulations of The Pork Belly
June 29, 2010
I’m the first to admit that I love pork belly. I’ve eaten it plenty of times in all types of applications from burritos to basted with fois gras butter but I really never worked with it that much. The restaurants where I worked just never used it so my exposure to this delectable dish never came to fruition until last week where I decided to tread through the uncharted territory of the roasted pork belly.

I’m mean come on, it’s bacon folks. Plain and simple. We’ve had it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It goes on salads, in my mac-n-cheese at The Monk’s Kettle and on burgers. How hard is it to make it into a delicious appetizer? Well, for this impatient chef, it took longer than expected but the results were definitely worth the culinary lessons I learned along the way.
Pork belly brining, braising and roasting needs patience. A half-gallon of patience. We brined the bellies in apple cider, sugar, salt, peppercorns and bay leaf for two days which is what I do with my pork chops. Vundabar! I read a number of recipes and treated the product like the pork butt I braised for my bbq pork sandwiches and attempted to treat the bellies like the butts and ying and yang didn’t get along with each other this time.
The bellies came out nice and flaky but I wanted that certain je nes se qua that I enjoyed when dining and enjoying this dish in San Francisco. The bellies I enjoyed were about two to three inches thick with a nice layer of crispy fat that made this dish epic. My bellies were huge and it was like I was cutting off huge chunks for a Texas bbq rather than something that was delicate. I scrapped the first batch which went directly into my bbq pork which I have to say, was wonderful!
I did some more research and found out a key step from Chef Gordon Ramsay. After you braised the bellies, basting them in their own juices and white wine and when “fork tender,” you semi cool them and place them on a sheet tray and then place another sheet tray on top pressing the meat down for twenty-four hours to make them very flat, uniform and easy to work with. I had already brown the skin of my last batch and trying to reheat these monsters would have been a culinary disaster for my customers so down into the cooler they went with three number ten cans of ketchup pressing them to the specs I would hope for.
I came in the next day to see a beautiful sight. Perfectly uniform bellies waiting to be portioned and braised in stock to a crisp golden brown. I served the pork belly with a blemheim apricot compote, house-cured bacon and caramelized baby fennel and a Moonlight Brewing “Working For Tips” demi glace. The reception of all this hard work was overwhelmingly positive. I am already planning on serving pork belly again this week with a different application. I can’t wait!
Places Where I Love To Dine and Why
June 28, 2010
San Francisco has over three thousand restaurants crammed into a 7×7 square mile city. There are some really great places to dine. We find ourselves wondering what’s out there. What would really make our dining experience memorable? Some of the places we frequent just get it. They know their stuff. Whether it’s the menu design, wine and beer list or just attention to detail, they get it. Now you need to try them and judge for yourselves.
Nopa is one of our favorite restaurants in San Francisco. Their commitment to local and fresh ingredients changes daily. They have a wonderful wine and cocktail list and their service is attentive, funky and fun. It’s also nice to be recognized as return guests. Reservations are highly recommended. It gets packed very early.
Sociale is nestled in a long cobble stoned walk way in Laurel Heights. It has a great patio setting when you arrive and it feels like you are dining in a small European bistro. The menu changes frequently and the staff is polished, their wine knowledge is solid and the food is very fresh, very local and imaginative. I recommended for a first date or a romantic dinner.
First Crush Wine Bar and Restaurant
We’ve eaten at First Crush for over five years and it always satisfies. The menu is upscale California-French and changes frequently. The ingredients are local,fresh and very well prepared. The wine program is one of the best in the city and offers great wine flights that are fun and interesting. The staff is seasoned and are attentive but not intrusive. Another great first date spot or for a romantic dinner.
Hey, we all have our guilty pleasures in life and fried chicken is one of mine. There are so many places in the city that offer up this wonderful comfort food but really never deliver the goods. Hard Knox does just that. For about ten bucks you get a wonderfully crispy half chicken with two sides that range from collard greens to mac-n-cheese. The staff is very friendly and homey. The place has a funky vibe to it. Watch out for the power tools!
This Upper Haight haunt is nestled directly next door to the Red Vic Theater. You can miss it if you aren’t looking carefully. The place is tiny with about eight bar stools and a few tables in the back. They are known for their cocktails. Hand smashed ice a plenty but the tattooed drink making dominatrix’s will entertain you for hours. They even have cocktail recipe books at the tables where you can pick a drink from the book and they will make it for you! The menu is small but well thought out. Very funky ingredients like complimentary Togarshi popcorn to beef tongue sliders. Again, it’s small, it gets packed quick but patience pays when you are finally seated. Enjoy one of their local Magnolia brews or a signature mint julep whilst you wait.
Considered a “chain” but you know what? I don’t care! They put together one of the best and biggest rice bowls that we’ve ever tasted. Huge chunks of poki tuna that’s fresh with pickled ginger, shredded seaweed and did I mention rice? All for about thirteen bucks. The service is friendly and attentive and they have a great signature drink list. I recommend their top shelf margaritas. One side note. Parking is horrendous so either try Golden Gate Park or public transportation or you will find yourself circling blocks for hours.
We’ve only frequented the park location of Chow because of the proximity to our Inner Richmond apartment. The food is comfort, with large portions and is made from fresh ingredients. They have a rotating tap beer selection that is very well thought out and even some Belgian ales. We always love the servers who are funky, fun and attentive. The prices are very reasonable and they have outside dining available. There always seems to be space available because the place is quite large inside.
We really like this wine bar. They have a great wine program by the glass and the bottle selection varies from numerous countries. We’ve tried all of their small plates and everything was delicious from flat breads to small salads. Cezar who runs the wine program there is very knowledgeable and will steer you in the right direction with the choice of wines you are looking for.
Whether you just want a burger or house made ravioli, The Richmond is a lovely restaurant located on Balboa st. in the Inner Richmond district of San Francisco. The owner/chef is always making sure your dinner is enjoyable and we had a great conversation about the highs and lows of starting your own restaurant. He was super friendly and gave us very sound information on opening a restaurant. The service was very friendly, polished and professional. The menu was upscale California cuisine and they have a very well thought wine list as well.
Recent Beer Dinner Pictures
June 28, 2010
I have created menus for about ten beer dinners so far. I have enjoyed them all and some were very challenging to say the least! I can honestly say that I’ve been able to create unique menus for each brewery since their beers are very unique too! I want to say thank you to Sonyayu for the wonderful pictures she shot during these dinners. I hope my posts compliment her wonderful pictures!
Hello world!
June 27, 2010
This is a test drive of my new blog. Wish me luck!























